Installation

We are working on compiling installation videos. In the meantime, if you have any questions, please email info@indexsuspension.com. For the most part, installation is straight forward. Always refer to factory torque specs. However, here are some tips and tricks:

Front

  • We highly recommend purchase a ball joint separator similar to this Ball Joint Separator | OTC Tools. Using mallets is not advised. While we will never officially condone the use of mallets, we understand sometimes you're stuck in a tight spot. In that case, a lead mallet is preferable as its soft face will cause the least damage.
  • Don't try and skimp on disassembly to get the shocks in and out. Beyond the UCA, and tie rod, disconnecting the sway bar, removing the rotor and caliper, removing the axle bolt, and unbolting the IWE from the steering knuckle makes lift much easier. Do it right and do it slowly to avoid having to fight to get shocks in and out.
  • Unbolt the position sensor from the UCA for a little piece of mind.
  • Access for the top hat bolts is best through the engine bay with long extensions.
  • The lower shock bolt has a torque spec of 406 ft-lbs and must be torqued with the weight of the vehicle on it. This requires a torque multiplier.

Rear

  • No special tools are required to do the rear (assuming you already have the eyelets on your shocks.
  • When you unbolt the shocks, make sure you have a jack on the rear diff so that the axle doesn't drop. 
  • Lowering the axle slightly after the shocks are removed can allow you to remove and reinstall the coil springs by hand. When doing this, WATCH YOUR BRAKE LINES. They have enough slack to do this, but you don't want to accidentally break them.
  • Torque the shock bolts with the truck on the ground.
  • The bump stop spacers are super straightforward. they are keyed to the frame.

Shock Eyelets

  • 7/8" shaft clamps and a vice are required for installation.
  • Press the rubber bushings out first.
  • Clamp the shaft in a vice using the shaft clamps as tight as you can if you have a massive vice, you're fine, but if you have a small vice throw a cheater bar on it.
  • Primarily heat the stock eyelet with a torch to break the loctite. Heating the shaft can be done too, but you want to avoid accidentally over heating it as that can change material properties. When the loctite is heated sufficiently, it should be relatively easy to unthread the shock eyelet using a crescent wrench. If it needs more heat the shock shaft will spin in the shaft clamps.
  • Clean the shaft threads and let them cool. While they cool, press the bushings into the new eyelets. Out installation tool is extremely helpful here. Can be quite a pain without. A little silicone lube will make a world of difference too.
  • Apply new red loctite to the shaft threads and thread on the new eyelet. Tighten with a crescent wrench or bar through the center of the bushing.

Top Hats

  • This requires a spring compressor. Be careful.
  • The stud pattern in the top of the top hat is not rotationally symmetric. Try to install the new top hat in the same orientation the stock one was in. This will save you having to rotate the shock body after the top is bolted up. Should you need to rotate the shock body, but a bar through the lower bushing for leverage.
  • Slide the bump stop down to the shock body to double check that the shock is fully seated against the bushing in the top hat.
  • All the nuts are distorted thread lock nuts so no loctite is needed or anything else to lock the threads.